Everyone that I met who’s been to the Philippines told me without hesitation that one month is way too short to visit this beautiful place – one month because this is how long you’re allowed to stay as a European (of course, you could always extend your visa but I have to admit that I am not aware of the technicalities around it). This is also because the Philippines has over 7,000 islands and one lifetime would probably not be enough to see them all – but what is enough you might ask?! To this you could add the long journeys by bus that are taking precious time from your month and that are very likely to get your adrenaline levels very high (unless you decide to go for the more comfortable and expensive option: flying). Don’t fret though: the reward for enduring such rides is a suite of eye pleasing landscapes and big smiles. I’ll tell you in a few moments why. 

The Philippines is the perfect example of the inner conflict that every traveller probably has and it was here that I experienced it more than ever: should I try to see as much as I can from the country or should I just choose a few places where I could spend more time, giving myself more opportunities to explore in depth and experience them at a more relaxed pace? I guess this time I went for a compromise, but will still be looking for an answer for my future travels. 

Manila
In a previous post I talked about traffic in Kuala Lumpur being nerve wrecking. But wait until you get to Manila – your next level experience. The ride from the airport to the hostel around 3am felt more like a ride at 7pm on a regular day. So you can imagine what I thought and immediately anticipated: it’s going to be tough.
First breakfast of the day (just so you know, breakfast here is all day long), little chat with the waiter. Me: Do you know how we can get to X (Intramuros) and how long it would take? Waiter: Aaah, normally it’s a half an hour ride, but most likely it will be 1,5/2 hours. Here it takes long because traffic is bad. In the end, it took a bit more than an hour but going to far away places in the city definitely requires some patience. You can always walk, but it takes quite a bit of time and sweat, the latter if you are not an early bird. You thought you’d run away from the burning sun? Well, not yet. 
Unlike other capitals in the area, Manila somehow has a different vibe. The place, just like many others in the country, is a mix of South Asian and Spanish culture (the reminiscence of the colonial era). Walking around Intramuros gives you exactly that: Catholic churches, old houses, beautiful architecture and Filipino street food: all in one. Chinatown, the business district with its Ayala gardens, the bay area and several parks (e.g. Rizal Park) are also your photo spots in Manila – if you’re brave enough to deal with the traffic and the heat. Dealing with these is however more enjoyable when you’re riding with the locals on a colourful Jeepney or a tricycle – all part of the experience and definitely not to be missed. Also part of the experience are occasional power outages, but hey – what a better opportunity to eat your dinner at candlelight?! 

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Banaue rice fields
After a few days in Manila (if any), you would perhaps want to run away to some cooler places. I surely would and did find the perfect solution for this: the rice fields in Banaue. To get there, you’ll need to… ? You got it, you have to take a bus – a 9hrs night  bus to be precise. But once there, your smile is back and if you got some sleep, even better: you’re ready to start your trekking. You can explore the area in less than 2 days, but I’d recommend taking at least 3 days and 2 nights, so that you can visit more places and have enough time for your trek. Your legs, especially your knees, might be challenged at times from all the ups and downs along the way (since there are concrete stairs in some parts), but the views are stunning and the chats with your guide surely entertaining (a guide is mandatory, you can’t go by yourself). Even more entertaining when you sing and talk about rebels in the country, forgetting about your knees for a moment and starting to worry about other things. But no rebel encounters, just some tourists that are likely to cross your path. The path that takes you along smokey mountains, unbelievably green rice terraces, hot springs, waterfalls and villages – all for you to take in and photograph. You’ll not want to stop taking pictures, that’s how inviting the sights are – this if your camera works and is not as stubborn as mine. Did you think this trip would be without a Murphy’s law story? Unfortunately for me, it wasn’t. My favourite (not to mention expensive) lens suddenly stopped working, with no immediate possibility to check it at a service center. Luckily for me, I could still use my other lens. Relax, they say, it’s going to be fine, they say. I say: Murphy, you and your laws better stop messing around with my trips, ok?

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Vigan city
Forgetting Murphy – my new mission. And it would have worked out quite well, if it hadn’t been for my stomach being excited by the 6 hrs ride on very curvy roads and for my backpack getting soaked from the beetle nut juice that spilled in the van, leaving behind a – let’s say “special” – scent. Washing your backpack and some of your clothes at 23:00 is exactly how you’d want to spend your night at a hotel, isn’t it? Promise I didn’t use any swear words. 
But coming back to my trip: the curvy roads and some more “straight” ones took me to Vigan City, after a short stop in Baguio. Baguio seems more of a “regular” place and I hardly saw any tourists there, even though I heard it gets pretty touristy. It does however have some nice spots to check out, such as the Valley of colours and the Mines view point. As for Vigan, it is listed as a Unesco heritage site, a cute little city and the only surviving historic city that dates back to the 16th century Spanish colonial period. As soon as you step in its famous Calle Crisologo cobblestone street, you find yourself back in time, in the Spanish colonial era. Witnesses to history are the beautiful buildings on this street that have seen many things and can tell many stories. You can easily walk the city center, gazing at Plaza Burgos, Plaza Salcedo and the Vigan Cathedral or you can learn about some of the local handicrafts such as pottery and Abel Iloco weaving. More time in Vigan would have probably been needed, as it would have allowed me to explore some other places outside the city. But time is precious in the Philippines. 

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Cebu and Bohol islands
It is indeed precious when you have to take an 11hrs bus back to Manila, so that you can fly to your next destination, in my case – Cebu Island (flying to Cebu would have been much more expensive). From Cebu City – your gateway to many hotspots –  you can go pretty much everywhere. If you opt for the island’s southern tip which is also its most popular one, there are plenty of things that you can do. To start with, visit the Kawasan waterfalls and, if you’re adventurous enough, try canyoneering. This is what the waterfalls are most famous for. They get very crowded though so if you don’t like crowds (who does?), you can definitely explore other waterfalls in the area which are less touristy (Cambais, for example). Also less touristy are Osmena and Casino mountain peaks, the latter requiring a 2hrs hike. If you don’t feel like hiking, go for Osmena. In maximum 15 mins you will be at the top and can enjoy some great sights. Sunset is probably the best time of the day to do it.
Jaw dropping sunsets are actually the leitmotif in the country. A delicious mango or banana shake, a sea breeze touching your face, white sand and turquoise waters luring you to get in – you can have it all if you stop by Moalboal’s White Beach. In Moalboal you can also snorkel or dive, gazing at the sardine schools.They come by thousands and it’s definitely something out of the ordinary. There’s also an option for swimming with the whale sharks in Oslob, but I would not recommend that. I’m personally against any kind of activity that involves interacting with wildlife in a way that disrupts their natural environment. In Oslob, this is exactly what’s happening.
If you’re a wildlife fan and want to see some in a more protected environment, you can visit the tarsier Sanctuary in Bohol, a very green island near Cebu. They’re no whale sharks, but I think they are worth the effort. These tiny creatures seem to be well taken care of and that’s a good sign. They also require special care, so please observe the sanctuary’s rules to keep on protecting the little “Yodas” (you’ll find a certain resemblance with the famous Star Wars character).
The island of Bohol is perhaps best known for its Chocolate Hills. Disappointingly, no chocolate involved. During the dry season the green grass the hills are covered in turns brown, hence the name. Whenever I think of these hills, I feel like eating some chocolate and I’m sure I’m not the only one. It would be such a cool idea if visitors were handed a tiny chocolate when paying the entrance fee. But keep on dreaming, Valentina! You’re not getting any chocolate! Coming back to reality, there are more things to do in Bohol if you give yourself some more time. I had only a day which was certainly not enough. 

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Palawan 
No amount of time ever seems to be enough when you’re stepping on Palawan, one of South China sea’s jewels. It is here where your mind and heart stop for a few seconds, to process the beauty that surrounds you. The beauty that you’ll find in turquoise waters home to many colourful  fish and other extraordinary marine life, white sand beaches hosting solitary coconut trees,  clear skies occasionally painted with a few lost clouds and an immensity of stars – the same stars that you might have forgotten about when at home. And it is for all these reasons that Palawan is very popular among fellow travellers – some honeymooning, others backpacking and the rest just running away from the city life. Talking about fellow travellers, no matter where you go in Palawan, at some point you’ll run into somebody that you had met at a hostel in Coron or at a guesthouse in El Nido or at a beach cottage in Port Barton or God knows where. Palawan seems to be the best place to make new friends who might also become your future travel buddies. Travel buddies with whom you might snorkel or dive around shipwrecks, share a few days (and rum) island hoping and stargazing, push a kayak in surreal waters and tell stories about what wonders you’ve discovered down there, in the big underwater world. And no experience is more enjoyable when your skin stops being picky with the sun and your allergy slowly recedes. Not to mention the feeling of being in deep waters without any life vest or fins, swimming as if you’re one with it. A reminder of how much you actually love the sea and the sun…and getting tanned. Imagine coming back from your (semi) round the world trip on stunning islands in Asia and Oceania the same way as you left: yoghurt white, not chocolate brown. But not this time, Murphy. 

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Chocolate brown (almost) and happy for having managed solo some strong sea currents and two cliff jumps (but unhappy to have lost an earring from one of my best friends while doing so) – that’s how I left the Philippines.
It’s been a month of constant discoveries, of friendly smiles, of deep conversations, and perhaps of more self confidence. But it was also a month of grumpiness at times, of skin cuts and bruises, of annoying sand fly and mosquito bites and of food poisoning knocking me (and my travel buddy) out for a day  – all part of the adventure. And if this trip has hopefully taught me something, it is to keep my eyes open for places that might seem not exciting at first and to expect the unexpected. 

I’ll be heading to Taiwan next, an unplanned  stop, yet a place that I’m looking forward to exploring. So stay tuned for new stories.