Borneo – the wild wild East

A mountain to climb, rainforests to trek, rivers to cruise, wildlife to spot and islands to explore, dive or snorkel around…ah, and a bit of sunburn. After all, what experience would that be without a “well-deserved” sunburn to proudly talk about?! 

Despite its “not safe to travel” reputation a few years ago (for those that may remember, there were tourists kidnappings in East Sabah), the East Malaysian state doesn’t cease to amaze those that are in for some adventures…adventures of all kinds. 

One jump away from Kuala Lumpur (well, a longer jump across the peninsular Malaysia and the South China sea), Kota Kinabalu is your gateway to some pretty exciting places in Borneo. Grab that van going to Mount Kinabalu where you’ll test your climbing skills (for novices) or add one more summit to your – I’m sure – long list of achievements (for the more experienced ones among us). Alternatively, spend some time hiking the park’s trails (some easier, others a bit harder) or just enjoy the view, relaxing at Jungle Jack Backpackers and filling your stomach with the delicacies prepared under Uncle Jack’s close supervision (but not before getting a few good laughs listening to his stories). 

From Mount Kinabalu, the road may take you to a different scenery: either up North to Kudat (the tip of Borneo) for some beach time and a glimpse into the local life or down South(East) to Sepilok and the Kinatabangan river for rainforests and the so famous wildlife: orangutans and sun bears that’ll give you an overdose of cuteness, monkeys (yes, also the cheeky ones that’ll steal your food in a blink of an eye), ferocious crocodiles (just kidding, you’ll most likely get to see the baby ones), snakes, etc. Take your time to soak up the atmosphere…and don’t forget to bring sunscreen, a torch and insect repellent, especially since you’ll be doing some jungle trekking too (including at night – cool, isn’t it?). Your mosquito friends will surely want to hang out for a little bit (they hung out with me for a little bit longer and made sure I would have very “fond” memories of them). 

One more ride on dusty roads and you’ll be in Semporna, a little town South East of Sabah that is your gateway to pristine islands and allegedly some of the best diving spots in the world. If you’re a diver and want to go to the one and only Sipadan, be sure to do your research beforehand and book your diving well in advance..but maybe you already knew that. For the rest of us, non-divers (non-divers yet), snorkelling is the alternative (and don’t worry, we are still cool people even if we are “just snorkelers”). While the corals may not be the most colourful or liveliest ones, the marine life is surely a treat..an octopus here, a ray there and fish everywhere…and the journey is not over yet if you have a bit more time to spend in Sabah which I would recommend. 

On the other side of Borneo you’ll find Serawak, Sabah’s twin, yet wilder brother. Serawak takes pride in its lush greenery, unique caves and untouched nature that await you eagerly.

If you are in Malaysia or somewhere in the area, don’t skip Borneo: it’s a jungle out there they say, but it’s this jungle that will give you sunsets to remember and stories to make your friends jealous about. 

Brunei 

“Brunei? What’s there to see? And are you aware that they’ve recently passed a new Sharia law (death by stoning for gay sex) that triggered a lot of international outcry?”  

As you can imagine, this was the reaction of some people when I mentioned my travelling plans after Malaysia. Truth be told, the idea of visiting a country that has just passed such laws was neither exciting, nor morally comforting. But should this really be a reason not to visit the tiny nation of Brunei (or the “Abode of Peace”)? I would think not..and I would think we wouldn’t do justice to the many people that live here and that are not supporting this type of laws; nor would we do justice to all that Brunei has to offer: spreads of wild rainforests, a rich culture (and since I mentioned “rich”, you can guess what’s next on the list), food that pleases our senses (just like its neighbouring Malaysia) and most of all, kind and respectful people. And don’t think that Brunei is too conservative, as we sometimes hear or read. As a woman, I figured I’d need to wear a hijab or be fully covered up..but guess what? No need for all this. Of course, that does not mean that as a traveller you shouldn’t be respectful of the culture and dress more modestly than you normally would. 

But what’s there to see and do in Brunei after all? I won’t lie to you – I haven’t spent too much time in the country, but if you’re willing to keep an open mind (and why wouldn’t you I wonder), it can be very rewarding.

Starting with a stroll in the capital Bandar Seri Begawan (you’d better do it early in the morning as the sun is nothing else but brutal), you can wander around the beautiful mosques and Kampong Ayer (the water village) or jump on a bus and take a few selfies at the Jerudong fish market (you might be surprised, but the public buses stop working at 18:00 –  even Switzerland does better than this, doesn’t it? – so make sure to catch one beforehand). 

If you’re up for a bumpy ride, get yourself on a boat to the mangrove forest. Even better, book yourself on a day trip to the Temburong National Park (and if you have a bit of time and more money go for an oversight stay). I trust you’re in for an adventure that’ll give you some beautiful views while doing the canopy walk. That same adventure might leave you “floating” on the river for a few good minutes while your boat is being fixed (shhhhhtttt, don’t tell anyone, but our propeller got broken on the way back creating some excitement among the passengers: some putting on their life vests, others just being amused of the situation and thinking about what a story this will make for). Murphy’s laws following me again, eh?! I wonder in silence. 

Talking about silence, if you want some quiet time, go explore Brunei’s countryside: by yourself or for the more comfortable among us, in an organised tour. Tours can also take you to Seria where you can see the oil fields or how Brunei is making money – it’s the “nodding donkeys” that bring all this money. “Donkeys” you might ask? What have donkeys to do with oil? And why are they nodding? I asked myself the very same – let me add valid – questions. As it turns out, those “donkeys” are metallic structures that extract oil from the ground in a movement that resembles, guess what? Exactly, a nodding donkey (every day learning something new, eeehee). 

But Brunei isn’t only about “nodding donkeys” and you should come, explore and discover it yourself. Peace be upon you!  

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